For the entirety of my adult life, I have lived by the
ocean. It isn't something that I
did intentionally, but rather, it just happened. I chose a college in Santa Cruz, not for the beach or its
proximity to it, the ocean wasn’t part of my planning at all. I was going for the school, for the
program, and because of friend of mine said she would go with me. When that friend ended up going
somewhere else, I had already begun making plans. There was no backing out at that point. Cabrillo wasn’t just my first choice,
it was my only choice. In all
honesty, the reason I chose Cabrillo probably had to do with the fact that it
was a junior college I knew about that was away from home. Mostly, that it was away from
home.
And then after Santa Cruz, it was San Francisco, not for any
particular reason either, other than that I wanted to live in a big city. In California, that means Sacramento
(ick) or Los Angeles (double ick, especially when you consider the proximity to
family. There’s this urge that
happens when you’re young to get as far away from any blood relation as
physically possible. Also, I hate
LA). That left San Francisco. And at this point, yes, the ocean came
into my thinking. Id been living
on the coast for three years, it was important to me to maintain that
bond. Because theres something
that happened to me on the ocean.
I had moved to Aptos, to a small apartment about a ten
minute walk from the waves. Over
the past two years, I had formed a bond with the ocean. Any time I wasn’t feeling particularly
good about myself, anytime I was down or lonely or upset, or when I just needed
some time in my head, I would go to the beach. Usually Seabright, because of its proximity to where I was
living. I walked to New Brighton a
few times while living in Soquel.
I biked to Capitola a few times, when I was actually biking. It was just there, not something we did
very often, just something that was open if I was bored I had an afternoon off,
or I had that constricting feeling in my chest like I just needed to get to the
ocean.
But one day, after I had moved into my apartment in Aptos, I
walked down to the beach. There
were two paths you could take, one which followed the cliff to Seacliff State
Park, and another path which snuck down the side of the cliff, switchbacking
across a cordaroy path of broken stairs and rocks beneath damp trees and
greenery so fresh and beautiful, you might forget that there were roads not two
minutes away from you. I was
afraid the first time I walked that path, not sure where it was leading or who
else might be on it. A few runners
went past me.
But eventually (and by eventually I mean after about three
minutes) it let out onto a bike path that in turn led to Seacliff beach. It wasn’t a particularly sunny day. There may have even been a bit of fog,
though that may be the fog of a memory almost four years old. I remember the sky was orange and pink,
and that the tide was so far out and the beach so flat and smooth and glassy
that you could see the reflection of the sky in it, so that the whole place was
awash with red and gold.
I skipped rocks for awhile, my shoes and sweatshirt
discarded some fifty feet away, forgotten. I collected rocks, filling my hands until I couldn’t feel
them for the cold, and I flung them into the ocean and watched as they skipped
and jumped across the choppy water.
I learned to time my tosses so that they perfectly coincided with the
flat of the wave, so that the rocks wouldn’t be swallowed by waves.
I rolled up my jeans and wandered into the water, letting it
touch my toes, keeping it below my ankles. And then up to my ankles, then the back of my calves, then
my knees. Up to my thighs. I waded in until I was waist deep in
the ocean, not caring that it was freezing, or that it was getting dark and
therefore colder, or that I was fully dressed. Not caring that I couldn’t swim, or that people were
watching. Because for some reason,
each wave that crashed against my legs felt like a touch from some unknown…
whatever. Felt like arms welcoming
me home. Felt like love and
comfort.
That was the beginning of it. From then on, I went as often as I could. I don’t think there was ever a week
that passed when I wasn’t down at the waters edge, skipping stones or just
walking. I tried running for a
bit, but, less face it, that was a ship I was never meant to sail. Harbor porpoises were my constant
companion as well, their little fins peaking out like little waves from another
world. Sometimes even dolphins
would show up, moving through the water.
I remember saying goodbye to the ocean, as well. I went in shorts and a bathing suit, I
threw myself into that water like a lab chasing a ball. I felt the water around me like a
blanket, holding me and wishing me well, sending me off.
I went to the ocean in San Francisco after my first
week. I thought I would feel that
kinship again. I hoped I would,
anyway. I knew I would need
it. I had come to rely upon it,
upon that constant companion of the faithful ocean, always there for me. I went to bakers beach, took off my
shoes and walked down the freezing beach to the waves. I let it touch my toes.
But it wasn’t the same. It was just water.
There was not that familiar feeling of being greeted by an old
friend. Only the sound of the
waves, the cold of them. The water
felt greasy, it smelled like oil, and it made foam that I didn’t even want to
touch. There was no soul.
I didn’t go the ocean very often while I lived there, only
occasionally if I was going for a walk and my feet carried me there. I went to the bridge a few times to
watch the dolphins. My favorite
game was to stand at the railing and wait for a tourist to approach. Once they were close enough, I would
beckon them over and point at the dolphins frisking down below. Then, once I had heard their excited
murmur, I would walk away and not look back.
And then I moved to Chico. Landlocked.
Yellow. Soulless in a way,
though nowhere near as bad as Baker beach had been. I took every opportunity I could to visit the ocean, even Baker Beach, anything for a view of the sea.
Anything if I could just glimpse a view of that friend I had come to
know so well, only to abandon.
And now I am here.
In Swansea.
I went to the beach for the first time a week or so
ago. I just walked down after
class, wearing sneakers and long jeans and socks and a backpack. I took my shoes off, even though it was
freezing, and stuffed my socks into their toes. I walked down to the water, which was at high tide. I had noticed while walking past that when
the tide goes out here, the beach grows almost a quarter of a mile. It is massive, a wide expanse of sand
and shoals as far as the eye can see.
But on this day, the tide was in. It was only a few moments before I was standing at the
waters edge. I wasn’t sure what
was going on. Everyone was
wearing shoes. Maybe it’s the Californian
in me, but I couldn’t understand.
I wondered vaguely if there were some biting insects that might hurt
me. But I didn’t care enough, I
just went on barefooted, feeling the shells under my feet, the soft shift of
sand beneath me.
I walked to the edge, right up to the very line where the
water met the land, and then I stepped forward.
The waves rushed towards me like open arms, wide and
welcoming. It didn’t matter that
it was freezing. It didn’t matter
that I had never been to this beach before. It only mattered that I was home, and this beach was
welcoming me.
View from the road.
Halfway across the beach looking towards town.
Halfway looking towards the ocean.
Shoals
Some sort of weird kelp, it felt almost like fabric.
Clam diggers make these all over the beach. If you look hard enough, you can see where he set the bucket down, lower left hand corner.
More shoals.